Backrest Install & First Coat Interior Paint (blue Dhow)

May 13, 2018

With other work looming in the afternoon, I got to work on the installation of the backrest.  With the board already templated and dimensioned to fit snugly, I wiped the board and fiberglass down with solvent and applied a protective tape line around the perimeter to prep for epoxy.  Next, I applied neat epoxy to the back of the board and the fiberglass.  The wetting out of the board was to prevent "starving" the glue up, since the very dry material would certainly pull a lot of the epoxy into its grain.  With all surfaces wet out, I mixed some thickened epoxy and liberally spread across the fiberglass surface.  I clamped the board in place.

While I was working with epoxy, I went ahead and applied a backing plate for the lower rudder hardware.  I sealed all sides of the backing plate and then placed it into position with a decent layer of epoxy thickened with 403 microfibers.

To finish out the session, I applied a coat of TotalBoat TotalBilge epoxy paint.  I prepped the surface by vacuuming it, and then wiping it down with solvent.  

I applied the paint with a foam roller.

Total Time Today: 2.5 hrs

Aft Seat & Backrest Fabrication - Blue Dhow

May 12, 2018

For the limited time I had today to continue work on the Dhows, I chose to complete the installation of the aft seating...and as far as I could get with the backrest on the blue Dhow.  I began by removing the tape helping to keep the epoxied seat cleats in place during curing (installed the night prior).

Next, I began making a template for the aft seat.  I applied a compass to the side of the hull and struck a line along a piece of cardboard.  I then removed the excess material (outboard of the line), and had an accurate fit.

I complete the port side in the same manner, and then used a few pieces of scrap cardboard to align both pieces.  The various pieces of cardboard are hot-glued together.

Back in the shop, I used a jigsaw to remove the seat, and promptly tested for level...

...yep, level!

Just as I had done with templating the seat, I repeated the same process for the backrest.

With limited mahogany on hand, I was forced to use a piece with  some sapwood in it - can be seen in the picture below, bottom portion of the backrest where it meets the aft seat.  The seating and backrest  on the Dhows will be have several coats of varnish applied, so I am hoping that the wood will not have issues with water and rot.

While I was working the aft portion of the blue Dhow, I went ahead and created a template for the support for the aft seat.

I removed it from a piece of mahogany in the shop, and tested its fit.  I had to make a few minor adjustments, but ultimately ended up with a snug fit between the bottom and the underside of the seat.

The final step for the day was to epoxy the aft seat and its support into place.  I solvent-washed the areas to receive epoxy work, and then painted them out with neat epoxy.  I also painted out the areas on the seating and support that would receive epoxy work.  I applied fillets where necessary, wet out the tabbing to be applied to the underside of the seat (outboard) and the support, and installed the fiberglass tabbing.

Final act for the day was to sand the backrest down to 220 and apply a first coat of Epifanes clear varnish - thinned by 30 to 40%.

Total Time Today: 4 hrs

Unclamping Seat Glue-up & Surface Clea-up

May 8, 2018

A quick session this evening: remove clamps from the blue Dhow's seat glue-up and then sanding the surface. I removed the clamps from the mahogany boards, removed the tape to protect the surrounding grain from epoxy squeeze out, and then applied the RO sander with an 80-grit disc to clean up the surface.  I will come back to template the seat's exact dimensions as part of the installation. 

Total Time Today: .25 hr

Brightwork and Sanding on the Blue Dhow

May 6, 2018

With a significant amount of time not producing any meaningful results (see yesterday's post), I was focused on getting back up to speed with continued work on the blue Dhow's brightwork - the portion I had in my control for the time being.  I removed the aft seat and backrest yesterday, and needed to begin construction of a new seat and backrest.

I began by culling out three boards from my inventory.  I had some older mahogany boards that were 6" in width, and just over 4/4 in thickness.  Unfortunately there is a bit of sap wood on a couple of the boards, but in one application it will be hidden, and in another there will be a small amount showing. Varnish will protect the sap wood.  I ran the boards I had selected for the aft seat across the jointer, and jointed the edges that would be mated together (epoxy will be used to glue the two pieces together to give me a board just shy of 12" in depth).

I then ran the boards through the planer to get them to the rough 3/4" thickness I needed.

With achieving the desired thickness for the seating boards, I set them aside and prepared to glue them up.

I laid out the two boards - purposely cut longer than I needed - to decide which surface was more attractive.  having decided the glue up orientation of the boards, I wiped the edges to be mated together will solvent to remove any oils from the wood.

I ran a tape line down the inside length of each board, and then applied neat epoxy to the surfaces first, and then another coat of epoxy thickened with West System 403 microfibers.  With the edges ready for the clamps, I then moved the boards into positioned and applied several clamps across the surface of the two boards.  While I was working in the shop, I selected a third mahogany board for the backrest, and then also read it through the jointer and planer.  I cut the backrest longer than I need so that I could later apply a template to then cut it to proper length.

I moved back over to the blue Dhow and began sanding the interior  - running through about 8 40-grit discs on the RO sander.  I finished up the sanding, and then vacuumed it out and solvent washed the surfaces to remove any remaining sanding debris. I grabbed a couple pieces of cardboard and created a template of the outboard surfaces of the backrest, and then set the template to the side.  I mixed a few ounces of neat epoxy and painted out the surfaces I intended to work.

Back in the shop, I laid the template out on a sheet of 6 oz. fiberglass cloth and removed the section that I needed - I intentionally cut this piece of glass longer than the actual dimensions since I planned to wrap it over onto the interior of the port and starboard hull.

with the cloth cut, I mixed some more neat epoxy and wet out the fiberglass on the areas I intended for it to be applied.

I also strengthened the transition at the chine, 

both port and starboard.  That was all I had time for today, but certainly more to come...

Total Time Today: 5.5 hrs

Steam-Beanding Gunwales (Attempted), Varnish Work & Aft Seat Removal

May 5, 2018

My goal today was to get the first gunwale steam-bent onto the jig (yet to be constructed), so I got straight to taking measurements off of the blue Dhow...

...and using the old gunwale from the blue Dhow to construct the jig.  I incorporated the sheer line on the bow as well - gently rising from amidships.

With the jig constructed, I moved into creating a scarfing jig for the gunwales.  The material that I have is just short of 12', so the aft portion of the gunwale will need a scarfed joint to run all the way aft.

With the scarfing jig finished, I selected the inboard gunwale for the blue Dhow and prepared to cut the scarfs.

I set the depth of the circular saw to just make it through the dimension of the white oak gunwale material.  The scarfing jig worked great.

I placed one of the four scarfed gunwales into the "steam box",  

and laid out the other three on the lawn.

I capped the end of the steam box and returned to the shop to varnish the brightwork.

I sanded all pieces with 220-grit paper, vacuumed and wiped them down with solvent.  I used a foam brush to apply a final coat (5th coat) of the Epifanes clear varnish.

With the brightwork complete for the day, I grabbed a quick bite and finished in time to remove the steaming gunwale.  I placed it on the jig and began to pull the port and starboard end onto the form.  I was nearly there when, SNAP!  Discouraged to say the least, I loaded the steam box yet again for another attempt.

Whilst the 2 hours ticked away, I spent the time removing the very rotted and damaged aft seating and backrest.  I applied an oscillating tool to the fiberglass tabs below the seat, removed three copper nails securing the seat to the underside of the backrest, and then removed the seat itself.  Using a laminate router, I worked the backrest in two passes.  The remaining 1/16th of material was removed with an angle grinder outfitted with a 40-grit flap disc.  I smoothed over the old tabbing and rough surfaces in the corners.  With some sanding on the RO sander, the aft portion of the blue Dhow will be ready for rebuilding.  I'll begin templating the new seat and backrest tomorrow.

The time had come to remove the second attempt, and I did so, walking it straight over to the bending jig.  Again, the 5/8" thick material could not take the bend.  The only two things I can think of are, 1. The grain orientation is wrong for the bend I am going for, or 2. my wallpaper steaming box just just get hot enough temps for good penetration through the wood.  

With work, work travel, personal travel, a new investment property to work on, and a looming completion date, I think I am opting for Dyer's gunwale kit.  This will leave me the balance of time to focus on fabricating the brightwork, working on the sailing rigs, and painting the Dhows.

Total Time Today: 10 hrs

Varnish Work cont...

May 4, 2018

Continued varnish work for the evening.  This would be the fourth coat of Epifanes clear varnish on the skegs and DB trunk supports for both Dhows, and the fourth coat for the blue Dhow's middle and forward seating.

I began with a sanding with 220-grit paper.  i then vacuumed, and solvent-wiped the various brightwork pieces.

I applied the varnish, thinned by 5 to 10%, with a foam brush.

Total Time Today: 1 hr

Continued Varnish Work

May 3, 2018

After dinner, a quick sanding of the various brightwork pieces, with 220-grit paper, and then a coat of varnish - a quick session today.

Total Time Today: 1 hr

Varnish & Epoxy Work

May 2, 2018

Tonight was a bit of varnish and epoxy work.  So to that end, I water-washed yesterday evening's epoxy application on the DB trunks - now cured.  I dried the trunks off and then sanded with 80-grit paper.  I set the DB trunks to the side, and continued to sand the varnished DB trunk supports, skegs, and the seats for the blue Dhow.  With all of the pieces sanded, I then vacuumed the surfaces and cleaned them with a rag dampened with solvent.

First up were the DB trunks...I applied neat epoxy to the one side which completed the two coats on all surfaces of the DB trunks.  Installation and paint would come next for the trunks.

For the balance of the Dhow brightwork, I applied a second coat of Epifanes clear varnish, thinned by 5 to 10%.

I will apply at least another three coats on the various brightwork pieces for both Dhows.

Total Time Today: 1.25 hrs

Cutting Daggerboard Slot and Epoxy Coating DB Trunks

May 1, 2018

After spending the weekend in Sedona - and I did actually agonize over the lost production time that a weekend gives me - I was relaxed, rejuvenated, and ready to get back to work on the Dhows.  I would say that if any of my readers have not been to Sedona, it is a trip worth taking - even if you do have a pair of dueling Dhows eager to again be splashed!  (Below, one of many stunning views from the West Fork trail)

This evening, I wanted to get the daggerboard slot cut in the white Dhow, the Dhow that is being converted to a sailing dinghy.  I took a measure from the transom to the aft end of the DB trunk on the blue Dhow, as well as the length of the slot, and finally, the forward end of the DB slot to the transition from bottom to bow.  I wanted to make sure that I was working with similar overall dimensions and that nothing was overlooked. 

Satisfied with my measurements, I proceeded to create a pattern of the existing DB slot of the blue Dhow...

...and applied it to the white Dhow.  This took some time to get the placement correct; but with the correct placement, I taped the pattern in place.  With a razor, I carefully removed the interior portion of the patter, and then traced the outline with a permanent marker.

A spiral saw was used to remove the fiberglass laminate, thus creating the daggerboard trunk slot.

I quick sanding around the edges of the newly created DB trunk slot and vacuuming allowed me to move on to coating the freshly exposed laminate with neat epoxy.

The next phase in the restoration of the Dhows will be to flip them and create a jig for the steaming of the white oak gunwales.

With the remaining epoxy, I stepped back to the shop and coated the side of the DB trunks that still required it.  

Total Time Today: 1.25 hrs